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| Original Victorian Cabinet Card which inspired the painting. |
24/10/2012
The Appointed Hour
Something Wonderful
It was my dream to take home one thing which would become a treasure for Nik and I for the remainder of our lives. We were beginning to despair that we would find anything. All the roads we took lead us to amazing experiences but nothing we could physically take back with us. Then our path lead us somewhere we didn't expect. On our way from Corfe to Brighton we stopped in at a little antique store and there we discovered two Victorian Gothic Revival Pews. These oak church pews are glorious with their hand carved backs. Before I ever saw them they sat in a room of the house I have in my head and when they appeared it was as if we were always supposed to find them. In reference to the style of the Pre-Raphaelites I have tracked down embroidered material by William Morris, the builder of The Red House to cover the seats and add another degree of fantasy to them.
23/10/2012
London
Even though I had experienced a degree of disappointment with the Pre-Raphaelite art I had seen at the beginning of my journey in Aberdeen I wanted to go to the comprehensive exhibition at the Tate Britain.
When I was a little girl and said things to friends that I no longer felt were applicable all I had to do was a takeback. 25 years later I'm going to invoke the rule of takebacks once again.
To put it lightly I was overawed. It felt like I was Howard Carter plumbing the depths of an intact royal tomb, moving from one room to the next as the treasures became even grander and more awe inspiring. Stained glass, embroidery, enormous tapestries and the most magnificent treasures of all - Edward Burne-Jones' paintings. I have NEVER seen anything so stunning in my entire life. His works were alive, they glowed. I felt like I had finally found that one thing I had been looking for for so many years. In front of Burne-Jones' works everything else paled. I would have cried if I hadn't worried about everyone in the room thinking I was a little mad. I had two days left in London and I had to force myself not to go back and look at the works again for fear they had somehow altered since the day before and that that invisible thread connecting them to my heart had somehow frayed.
Strangely we had dinner before the Jack the Ripper night walk in the Indian restaurant at the corner of Thrawl Street and Brick Lane and later during the tour we learned that this used to be the Frying Pan Public House where one of Jack the Rippers victims Mary Ann Nichols was seen on the night of her death.
My last treasure from London was the V&A. I wish I had a sketch book with me as there is so much within this glorious building which was inspiring. I can't believe that museums like this actually exist. The wealth of medieval art and sculpture was staggering and my two new loves - stained glass and tapestries were abundant here.
England & Scotland were fascinating and enchanting places filled with such a variety of treasures. I thoroughly enjoyed my time there and all these experiences will certainly lead to a new artistic development in my work which would never have been possible before.
14/10/2012
Brighton, Battle & The Red House
| The View from our hotel room in Brighton |
After Brighton we decided to go to Battle and watch the annual celebrations for 1066 which included a battle with over 1000 participants. When we arrived we were told that the 10 minute bout of heavy rain and hail the day before had waterlogged the ground and the battle had been cancelled. However the British Heritage people were very good and we still got to go in for free and see Battle Abbey and the actual field which played such an important role in British history.
After that we went on to the Red House just outside of London to see William and Janey Morris's specially designed Pre-Raphaelite house. The exterior was charming and this particular day was the day of the apple festival so we were lucky enough to get to try apples from the trees which had been there in the days of Rossetti, Lizzie Siddal and Edward Burne-Jones. Inside though it is a sad place, stripped of any feeling of warmth by the fact that it contains only a couple of pieces of the original furniture which had been built in. If only the galleries which hold on to these precious things would let them go back I think this house would be transformed. Many of the frescoes that had adorned the walls were painted over later but there is enough there to get a feeling of what it may have been like in its heyday.
11/10/2012
Corfe Castle
| The view of Corfe Castle from just outside our B&B |
| Morton's House Hotel built in 1590. |
| The sitting room at Morton's House Hotel |
| One of the towers of Corfe wedged against another section of wall |
| Corfe Castle seen from the village below |
Later that day and a new change of clothes later we were up at the castle, now a romantic and subsiding ruin. It's history is just as varied and wonderful as any I have read so far and wandering around one gets the sense that at any minute one or other of the precariously balanced stone structures leaning at various worrying angles could slip down off the steep hillside and be lost forever. I think it may be this sense of imminent disaster coupled with the past ones that brings a kind of energy to this forlorn and striking place. There is enough of it left that one can imagine it as it had once been and there is also something surreal in the enormous chunks of wall still intact that balance one against the other while huge sections still stand guard at the top of the hill.
St Michael's Mount & A La Ronde
| St Michael's Mount at high tide. |
| St Michaels Mount has to take the prize as the most spectacular castle I have ever seen. The fact that visitors have to take a boat that is little more then a dingy across to get to the tiny port with its collection of old houses is wonderful in itself but once one has climbed the pebble pathways to the top there it is nothing I have seen so far that matches it. |
| On the little island of St Michael's Mount the castle appears like a ghostly vision. |
We took the first boat over to the island at about 10 am. The night before we had stayed at a bed and breakfast with a view to the castle and only for a few hours around midnight had the mist cleared long enough to see the castle lit up amongst the darkness and the twinkling lights of the settlements beyond. When we awoke the next morning the castle had disappeared again.
Undeterred we took the little boat across and were rewarded by the faint looming silhouette above the village.
| After climbing to the top the castle looms out of the mist. |
Here on this island the vegetation is lush and wonderfully varied and the castle seems to grow out of the rock it is perched upon to sit at its apex with gardens sliding downwards into the sea.
| My heart was in my mouth as I leaned over the battlements and was greeted with this view. |
| One of the interior rooms of the castle. |
Once inside it has all the things one would want from a castle that is still being used as a residence. It has a strong sense of quiet solitude with its sweeping views from the battlements and a beautiful interior which celebrates a mixture of styles and periods. We saw a lovely collection of objects from decorative to religious and military and I was delighted to discover a pair of rooms decorated in Chinoiserie style.
We are on our way to Brighton to meet a friend and take in George IV's splendid and over the top creation Brighton Pavilion. It's been ten years since I was last there but it made such an impression on me I have to go again. It's a long drive so we are breaking up the distance with some interesting stops. The first of these is A La Ronde.
| Shell bell jar display in a stairwell |
| Fireplace display |
This is an unusual building, passed down through the female line which contains an eccentric collection of mementos and keepsakes. Its use of space is enchanting with the rooms arranged around an interior reception space three stories high. Its hand painted walls reach up to the second floor where fabric folded to resemble a tent terminates at the base of a small walkway decorated with shells and paintings. This shell mania reminds me of the Calke taxidermy collection but on a smaller though no less eccentric level. Because of its age and fragility the shell walk is not open to visitors which was a real pity but you are treated to shell displays throughout the rest of the house as if to make up for the greater loss. These quirky arrangements can be found tucked away in corners or presented in fire grates, assembled into framed pictures or in cases. All in all A La Ronde is the perfect display case for these ladies loves and fantasies and I am very glad I was able to experience a little of their world.
| A La Ronde |
| Interior reception hall of the house. |
| Large collection of Shells in a cabinet |
10/10/2012
Knightshayes, Tyntesfield, Castle Drogo & Lanhydrock
Gothic Revival is such a wonderfully grand imaginative style with houses crammed with carved wood and stone, painted ceilings and colour. As we traveled down the country we came to Knightshayes Court and Tyntesfield Manor, both commissioned by wealthy Victorians craving a bit of Medieval wonder. They were both breathtaking in their own rights but I have been told that Cardiff Castle is Burgess’ ultimate triumph where his wings were clipped in his plans for Knightshayes. With only eight days left it’s not possible to visit Cardiff Castle this time but next time I am in England I will have to make a pilgrimage there.
Castle Drogo has to be a favorite. Built in the early 20th
Century it is austere yet completely inviting. The name of Edwin Lutyens will
stand next to Burgess in my admiration. He has a simpler less fussy style,
grander in its own bare and monumental way. There is less of the fairytale in
Lutyens architecture but his dressed stone interiors and sweeping statements
lead on to small comfortable rooms which were livable and inviting.
| Wall Sconce Castle Drogo |
| Gargoyle at Nightshayes Court |
Lanhydrock later in the day unveiled its own splendors but
was a house to be seen in and I think not one to love in the same way. I was
still thrilled by the wonderful old gatehouse and the topiary and the stepped
garden spaces which were delightful.
| Lanhydrock Gatehouse |
| Lanhydrock Courtyard |
| Lanhydrock Long Gallery |
The sense of craftsmanship and attention to detail in all of
these houses was spectacular. As well as artistic inspiration I am looking at
each with an eye of how I can incorporate them into my own ideas. In a few years’
time Nik and I will start to design our own house and though we don’t have the
huge budgets that these people had we have the imagination to hopefully create
something very special and unique to us.
08/10/2012
Calke Abbey, Baddesley Clinton & The White Horse
A trend has been forming recently.
Every day I go to a new place and rave about it. It’s the best thing I've ever seen and I
thought that nothing could beat Castle Howard for its impressive interior and I
was right in a way but I hadn't yet visited Calke Abbey…
| Even though this room is massive the collection has taken over somewhat. |
| The obsessive taxidermy collection in one of the little rooms at Calke Abbey |
| A bedroom as it was left by its former occupants |
The pull of this particular house is
that it is in a state of decline.
The National Trust have been careful to
preserve it in the condition in which they found it; a painstaking process of
expensive and time consuming work to be sure the wallpaper peeled off that part
of the wall just so and the mold in that hallway remained exactly as it had
always been when they acquired the property without getting worse. This particular family were not big on
socializing, updating or showing off. Instead their lineage follows a trail of
eccentric recluses who enjoyed to hoard. Calke’s halls are stuffed with
bits and pieces from various collections. It is sad that death duties ate up half of the
taxidermy collection because it is quite a statement about the house and it's quirky family but there is still enough of the curious stuff crammed into various rooms to give the viewer a real feeling of the place and the obsessive nature of its former owners.
Calke opens very late on a Sunday so we arrived at Baddesley Clinton without much time to spare. This medieval moated house was glorious with its little
half timbered hallways, stained glass windows and makeshift chapel. It's little inner courtyard was a real delight and I loved the way that ivy and wisteria is grown everywhere here. It adds a real charm to these houses and the different topiary is enchanting and will probably pop up in some paintings sooner rather than later.
As the sun began to set we found
ourselves on white horse hill and then later within The White Horse Inn, a half timbered and half thatched in nestled in a little village just past the foot of the hill. A very tiring but incredibly rewarding day.
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